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Peak Mountain 3

The Voodoo Child

FA Brett Johnston (from Seattle)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is vicious. Beta is coming, so stop reading if you don't want it. Keith broke the original starting foot and banged his chin so now the foot is a couple inches closer to your hand. It makes the first move that much more difficult. From there you hit this wierd sloper undercling bulge in a slab power move and shift your feet to two high bad poppy feet. Then you go super balanced and slow to a high really poor invisible crimp. From there I turn my right foot into the starting goodish crimp and get a toehook hand match on the wild bulge. I found this to really be the only way to get that hand off without going off balance. My arms are at full extension pretty much here. I then got my left hand to a thumbercling intermediate in another bump power move that makes you splutter and quake. I was shut down on the topout. There are just these heinous flat slopers and then a little tiny two finger crystal crimp. I think the next move is a deadpoint to these two good holds and then you top out.

This is one of the hardest slab boulders in the US.

Location

The Fisherman Boulder, facing the path. It is right to the right of Its Rio Time.

Protection

A couple pads.