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Peak Mountain 3

Seventh Sojourn

FA Brian Komen and Mark Thomas (1990)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Overall, Seventh Sojourn has mostly good rock and adequate protection. In my experience, pitch 2 is the pitch that stands out: heady traverse to small pro followed by enjoyable steep climbing. The guide "Sandia Rock" indicates that pitch 3 is the crux pitch (5.9).

P1 (5.7 to 5.7+): Face and crack climbing mostly straight up the major weakness to a bolted belay just after a chimney formation - which can be avoided by staying left.

P2 (5.9, crux pitch): Traverse right several moves and then up as needed to get some small pro (~1/3 inch) near the base of the flake. Then ascend the flake followed by climbing a left trending dihedral above the belay to a bolted anchor.

P3 (5.7-5.8): Traverse left, then up and right, then up past a bolt (may be difficult to see). Continue mostly straight up until finding a short vertical crack above a small horizontal ledge: gear anchor from about 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches (useful cams:  0.5" & 1").

P4 (5.8): Seventh Sojourn proper continues mostly straight up and through a small chimney/roof and then to the top. Gear anchor.

If the leader runs out the start of the 3rd pitch a bit then the second can skip the vegetated traverse and instead get immediately into some enjoyable terrain (5.9?) - i.e., climb up while trending left from the belay through small features and a couple shallow cracks before resuming pitch 3 proper.

At the top of pitch 3 and from the described gear anchor, the bolt visible up and left about 15 feet protects a few 5.10a moves of a p4 variation which then continues up past the 1st bolted anchor for the rap of The WatchTower.

Location

The start of the route is found after rapping down The WatchTower as described on that page.

If you rapped Watchman's Secret - recommended with a 70m rope, Seventh Sojourn is roughly 100 feet down hill skirting along the base; see photo of pitch 1.

View from the base of The WatchTower. The first pitch of Seventh Sojourn goes up the major weakness slightly left of center; pitch 2 traverses left to right beneath the flat wall above before heading up.

If you instead rapped the face that Seventh Sojourn ascends, well, you are at the base of the starting pitch. :)

Protection

Anchors from bottom to top are bolts, bolts, gear (1/2" to 1 " - useful cams: .5" and 1"), and a couple large trees a little back from the cliff top. Standard rack to 2 1/2 inches. Cams or slider nuts less than 1/2 inch useful.