South Ridge

Park at mile marker 28, cross Ptarmigan Creek and ascend up the School Bus Gulley. In the winter this a steep terrain trap for avalanches. This is the best way to gain access to the upper glacier in the summer. Allow 1.5-3 hrs to gain the glacier.

Once on the glacier cross it and ascend up the snow/ice slope to gain the col to the south ridge. In the winter the climbing is composed of steep snow and corniced ridge climbing and in the summer it is a 4th and 5th class scramble.