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Peak Mountain 3

Hat Trick

FA Joe Terravechia, Peter Rice '87
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb thin cracks (crux) to just below the prow where the crack forks. Take the right side (fingers) to the widening crack above. The last 30' is flaring squeeze chimney/offwidth. This is where a big (5 friend) piece might be nice, otherwise it's a long way without reliable gear. Belay from large boulders on top. A very good route with real climbing in the first half.

Location

Far right side of Red Diamond, on top of a ledge. Expect some scrambling to gain the belay area. To get there from the middle section of the wall, walk slightly downhill around the small buttress, then up scree and ramps, to a final bouldery section. Look for thin cracks going straight up to a prow, and a 3' roof above and right. To descend: downclimb exposed 4th class terrain to the right.

Protection

0tcu-4BD, nuts (micros may help), a #5 friend would take the spice out of the moderate, flaring squeeze at the top.