Monkey Lip

This route is located on the side of the thumb, up and right from the starts of the standard thumb routes. (S-crack, etc.) You can scramble up the 5th class gully to the right of the standard thumb starts for about 150 vertical feet or so. After the gully scramble, on the wall to your left you'll see a short attractive splitter to a right-leaning flare (this route is Spring and Fall) and up and right about 100 feet is the alcove with the left leaning roof coming out the top-this is Monkey lip. A hard to spot bolt can be used to protect the starting moves. Lower from the anchor at the top. Note: In the Ruckman's guidebook the bolt count is wrong, the difficulty of the first half is erroneously marked as 12c, and the topo sketch is wrong (its drawn in as right facing feature and its most certainly left facing).

You have your options for cam size to protect much of this crack. If you chose to skip the bolts bring a standard rack of cams- no nuts needed, and double-up to hand size with a key #4 BD instead of the starting bolt. Otherwise just use a single set of cams to hand size and draws. Anchors at top just over the lip(the monkey lip?).