- Edit (TBD)
Description
The hardman's way to do What's My Line.
This is a stellar but testy climb and one of the most classic Grossman leads I've belayed (and I've belayed a few of them...)
Rock is good, moves are great but as I recall it's pretty good 5.11 climbing.
This was all hand drilled in one shot. Just as Steve was getting to where I thought deck out was starting to become an issue, he'd stop and drill a bolt (all 3/8") off some pretty sloping foot holds.
I'm not sure I could have drilled some of these bolts off these stances. They're reminiscent of Marty Woerner's routes at Gnt Mnt and Suicide. No wonder, as Marty was an early mentor of Steve's.
Stellar climb if you're climbing 5.11+ face. If 5.11 face is at your limit, this may be a bit runout for you. I do believe it's a safe route, just not a sport route, but certainly sporty.
Second pitch joins the direct start to WML. Runout 5.8 for the third pitch then onto the enjoyable easy ground of WML.
Location
Thrash to true base of the WML wall and find the bolts. Read Dave's description of the first pitch below. My recollection is the start was fairly obvious.
Protection
Bolts on first and second pitches, then slings, etc... of WML. You might want a few nuts to see if you can get anything in on WML. Edit: look at Geir's write up for a good, recent report.
Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2016.