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Peak Mountain 3

Core-shot

FA Sam Lightner and Josh Gross
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 Start the route on the Northeast side of the tower in a small alcove that makes a great catchers mitt for falling rocks. Do a boulder problem to get into the crack then ascend, using hand jams and wrestling moves, for 180 feet to a ledge.. Its pretty soft.

P2 climb a little ways down a slab so that you can reach the left crack, then go up the crack (even softer) on some manky pro. If you maxed out on 5.10, you don't want this pitch, but its no harder than that... you just need to have a little extra power In case something important fails and your suddenly on your arms.

Its over pretty quick and your on the summit.

Rap the route... and watch for inexplicable sharp edges. We ruined a rope on the big rap and have no idea how as its a very innocuous looking descent.

Location

The route is on the northeast side of Oobleck Tower.

Protection

Lots of hand and wide hand gear. I'd take triples or quadruples on 2.5-3.5, then a couple 4's and maybe a 5. Really small aliens, or a pin (L.A.), will help with the boulder problem start. The long pitch is really long, so plan on hand pieces at your own spacing.

The rap anchors double 1/2 inch bolts.


Routes in Oobleck Tower


  1. 1
    Core-shot
    5.10
    Trad