We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Approach Pitch

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The climb starts on obvious chicken heads following a fairly prominent groove. The first 30 feet is 5.5 and then it is a class 4 scramble up to the wide crack. From there you make your way onto a ramp. There are two cruxes on the route, the first is climbing the wide ramp that gets progessivly narrower on grainy rock that has your feet skittering off. Once you have begun lay backing your way up the crack the second crux comes at you fast. The route is not well traveled therefore the rock is fairly loose and lichen is growing in the crack. The crack peters out and you are faced with a 20 foot run out on Joshua Tree slab. The rock quality on most of the route is very grainy, loose, and sandy (especially at the cruxes).

Location

When looking up 200 Hotels and Taken For Granite, The Approach pitch is below and about 50 feet to the right. The start is surrounded by yuccas and bushes but there is a fairly decent spot for the belayer to lay out his or her rope. There are no anchors at the top.

Protection

#1 and smaller camalots, there is a spot or two for a #2 Camalot. Use slings if you protect the first 25 feet of the climb as the rope drag can be a problem.