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Peak Mountain 3

Bleeding Edge

FA WW
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Clip bolt #1, then start into the techy V4ish slab crux which will be much harder the shorter you are. It's not necessarily an easy read, but with the proper footwork and hold selection, you will make it to the "bookmark" crimp, at which point you are ready for a balancy lunge to the horizontal.

Once you reach this obvious breather, continue up through the bulge and under the small roof, clipping the 2nd bolt of Los Amigos (your 4th).

Eye the leftwards fingerwalk, conspire to clip the 5th bolt, and gather yourself for the final showdown with the slightly overhanging headwall on edges, ledges and crimps.

Top out with an airy mantel on a jug ~10-15 feet above the final bolt (how many climbs do you actually get to top out the cliff?!).

Named for the Pynchon novel (you're at the library, after all).

Location

Start to the right of Los Amigos. End above the obvious mini-headwall, then walk right to the bolted anchor.

Protection

5 bolts, stiff shoes, thick skin. 2 sleeve bolts with hangers at the top, currently no rap rings or chains. Extend the anchor to clean or TR, eventually use the Los Amigos anchor to get down.