- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route was also led ground-up although we initially thought this would be in the 5.9 range. We were very wrong! The corner which looked relatively easy from the ground proved to hold awkward climbing in a gently overhanging corner with difficult gear placements.
Clip a bolt at the start and make a hard pull into the corner. Climb the corner using a variety of techniques, jamming, stemming, and various face techniques. A small bulge in the corner is surmounted by careful stemming and is protected by a #4 Camalot underneath the bulge. Above, easier climbing leads to a good stance and the anchor, which is on the left face. When you lower out from this 40 - 50 foot route, you will land 10 feet or more out from the start of the route.
Location
This route is the 2nd route from the right and a bolt protecting the start also marks the start of the route. The route climbs a corner system that looks like a closed book and is gently overhanging.
Protection
One bolt and gear from small to #5 Camalot. Two-bolt chain anchor at the top.