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Peak Mountain 3

The Chimney

5.6
trad
FA W. Helburn, Chamberain, Holden, Kennedy, M. Helburn, Dow, Whipple (1923)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A long, great gully climb. When I climbed it there was very little ice, making it a snow climb with a few easy rock bands. The hardest part for us was actually getting onto the ridge at the top of the climb to head out for the knife edge and the rim of the basin, though by heading left down the Dudley trail this crux may be avoided. DO NOT CLIMB WHEN THERE IS AVALANCHE DANGER!

Location

The south basin, on the left wall. The route can not be seen from Chimney Pond.

Protection

Snow gear (pickets), probably some screws (we didn't use them for lack of ice), a light rock rack (nuts and a few cams).

Routes in 06. All Winter Ice Routes - Chimney Pond & other Sub-Areas