- Edit (TBD)
Description
Begins up the obvious flared chimney at the far left side of Denial Ledge. Climb the lower section of the chimney, then follow the bolt line moving partially out onto the right face. A tricky crux move at the top gets you onto a large ledge and top anchors. Rappel back down to Denial Ledge or continue pitch-2 choosing one of the following three options: a) 'Charms at the Inner World' (45ft. 5.10c): straight up from belay to summit and walk-off. b) 'Traditional Charm' (45ft., 5.9 trad., gear to 2.5 inches): lead up from left corner of the belay with lots of opportunities for placements. c) 'Goat Cuisine Culture' (70ft. 5.9+): follow left bolt line traversing left and up to a high ledge to a fixed wire-draw and into the crux move around a bulge and rock window. From this point a thin friction-slab move yields to an easier finish and walk-off. Regardless of which option you choose to finish on expect to have some awesome exposure!
Caution: Rappel from summit to Denial Ledge is >100 feet). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Topo E page 90.
Location
Far left side of Denial Ledge. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua Map 1 page 80 and Topo E page 90.
Protection
bolts and chains
Routes in Mind Planet
- 11Inside Passage5.10a/bSport