Balls to the Wall

Grovel up a short corner to begin and gain the ledge. Grab the fat, but very solid flake jug and pull around the right side of the roof onto the face. Climb through plated holds to a roof, where a no-hands rest is gained out left. Surmount the roof to a slabby boulder problem requiring balance, compression, and probably route finding -- maybe your partner will chalk up the holds for you...or not.

From where the main trail initially comes up to the cliff, follow "New Secret Garden" trail down and right, to a bridge over a small gulley, back up to the cliff. This is the first route encountered (along with No Regrets). It climbs the plated face just right of a thin seam.

6 bolts to chains