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Peak Mountain 3

TRON

FA Alex Baker and Eric Bissell
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Tron is a new route put up in the summer of 2010. It climbs beautiful squeaky clean orange and grey El Cap granite to the top of a feature called negative pinnacle.

Although the angle is less than vertical, it climbs much more like a face climb than a slab climb, using edges, sidepulls, mantles, and even a few pockets.

The first crux is a dynamic hand-foot match between bolts one and two, with the true crux on hard sidepull moves between bolts two and three just above. Above that, interesting climbing across an improbably blank face and a few 5.12 sections keeps you agonizingly focused for 120ft.

Location

About a hundred yards uphill from the Sickle raps is a large recessed pinnacle. On the right side of the pinnacle is a route in the corner called the High Arc (11+), to the left of it is Party Mix (10b). To the left of Party Mix is the start of Tron. It climbs up and left to chains for the last rappel if bailing from the Stove Legs on the Nose.

A second rope is required to rappel.

The start can be top-roped from the Party Mix anchors.

Protection

11 Bolts. As Tron was hand drilled on lead, there are a few places with exciting space between bolts on easy terrain. At the hard sections it is well bolted.