- Edit (TBD)
Description
A really good route that is unfortunately so sparsely bolted that it's hard to enjoy to its fullest, nevertheless it has some really excellent climbing and great exposure. I called it PG13 but realistically a fall on P3 before the first bolt could be worst than PG13. Make sure to have a very solid head for this one. Bolted on lead which is definitely respectable but be ready for adventure!
Pitch 1 is 120 feet and has 6 bolts, pitch 2 is reasonable for the 5.9 leader and pitch 3 is perhaps the spookiest of them all. As my partner put it, "the best way to climb this thing is to have your partner lead it."
P1: Start up an easy slab to a short steep section with good holds. Continue up and around numerous bulges to a two bolt anchor in a left-facing corner. (120 ft, 5.8)
P2: Work straight up the corner to a stance before a tricky crux and mantle. Romp up easier terrain through the occasional bulge to a two-bolt anchor. (60 ft, 5.9+)
P3: Move left 25 feet and up some serious no fall terrain to the first bolt. From here, continue up very cool black rock with excellent texture and features until it eventually eases off for the last 30 feet to a two-bolt anchor. (100 ft. 5.9)
Location
300 feet right of the Ragnarock Buttress and 50 feet right of Heady Topper.
Protection
Bolts, a few of them at least.
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