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MapDescription
Just left of Chickenhead Holiday is this slabby area. There are three bolted beginnings here. This is the rightmost. Carefully work your way to the first bolt avoiding the potentially dangerous pre-bolt fall. Continue to the 2nd and veer left to the third bolt just off the blunt arete. Here the route steepens and the crux awaits. It seemed harder than 5.10b to me.
Protection
3 draws for the climb and 2 for the chains, a runner for a chickenhead tie-off would be helpful and if desired bring a couple of medium pieces for the easy finish.
Routes in The Waterfront
- 3Acapulco Arete5.10bSport