Satan's Toy

This is the short wild overhang that might topple into talus at any moment, about 20m R of the Devil's Arch cave. Wobble up easy junk in a gully to the beginning of a left traversing crack below the overhang. Stuff a big cam (3.5 Camelot) and extend draws as you traverse up left (6b) placing shallow mid-size cams. Straddle a massive chopper block on your way to the puny roof. I put in a yellow Alien in under the roof, then forced the climbing R towards the obvious giant bucket and topped out. Also possible to easily exit L instead (5b), but who would skip doing the cool roof before it falls off? This is yet another route that would be fifty times better with bolts.

Cams to #3.5 Camalot. many choices for anchor building on top