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Peak Mountain 3

Out of the Blue

FA August 2019- Chad Ambrose, Brian Smoot
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a fun adventurous route. Once below the buttress, to get to the first pitch you need to go climbers right up a small gully and go up a short chimney to scramble to the base. Build your own belay anchors.

Pitch 1- starts on a broad ledge and works up the short face onto another large ledge then goes straight up through an obnoxious tree/bush to a chimney directly below the hand crack. 5.7. 90-100'~

Pitch 2- goes straight up the hand crack over a short roof, then up the right facing corner over another small roof and up an incredible splitter hand crack up through a scoop to a nice belay spot. 5.8, 110~ (pitches 1 and 2 can be combined if you wish).

Pitch 3- follows a finger-sized crack up the slab up another short roof to the top of the slab to an arete. 5.7, 100 ~

Pitch 4- from the top of pitch 3 go climbers left around the large fin and onto the face of the fin and climb a fun hand-crack face with good protection to the top of the fin and to the base of a clean face directly above you and to the left. 5.6 120~

Pitch 5- from top of pitch 4 two options, proceed straight up the clean face to the top likely going 5.6 or do what we did. Traverse to the climber's right, sling the large rock and step over the small gully and onto the next steep face with a two roofs. Climb to the right of the first roof and straight up the steep face to a second chimney with a small roof and a chockstone. Avoid the chockstone and proceed up the sharp arete to the summit.  5.9- 150'.

Location

About a mile up mineral fork trail look to the east. Bushwhack, follow talus to the base and go around to the south up a small drainage to a chimney. stem up the chimney (awkward) to the base of the route.

Descent-- At the top of the buttress, walk about 100' to the south east and go down the first drainage you come to. We slung a large pin tree on the looker's left side as you go down and rappelled using 1 60 M rope. Then walked down the steep drainage. We built a large cairn lookers right near the bottom of the drainage where you exit it and then hike down to the packs.

Protection

Standard mountain rack. Doubles to #2 and a single #3,#4 should be fine with some nuts. 1 60 M rope.


Routes in Surprise Buttress


  1. 2
    Out of the Blue
    5.9-
    Alpine · Trad