Magik Luv Gaz

A vertical section with ledges presents a bouldery puzzle off the deck, well-protected with two bolts. Starting at the bolt on the left goes at 5.9; using the right-hand first bolt instead used to go at 5.10a until a block broke off. Now it's a fairly decent V3/4 boulder problem. Caution should be used if attempting to lead the right hand variation as the protection bolt placed is totally worthless and will not protect you from a ground fall when pulling through the crux. A boulder pad is a better option than a rope. Both variations share the same bolt line for the rest of the climb (dirty 4th class), low-angle but with an easier cruxy move close to the anchors. Lichen makes footwork more delicate than you'd expect up here.

Northwest side of the Scone, in view of the Split Rock chimney. Lower or rap off the anchors. A 60 meter rope is ample.

Seven or eight bolts to an anchor with Mussy hooks.