Maximum Leader

Let me start off by saying that this is one hell of a good route and should be on every 5.12 NRG climber's list of must do routes. Diversity of movement, length, setting, and difficulty all come together on this classic.

Maximum Leader starts on the huge boulder between Hellbound for Glory and Luck of the Draw. Pulling on Porcelain, a 13a, starts just left of it and unfortunately follows Maximum Leader closely most of the route. But you'll get over this minor point quickly once realize the radness of this rig.

The route starts with a desperate boulder problem that might be a bit easier for shorter folks. Figure out this powerful start and ready yourself for another powerful 12- roof pull. Once into the dihedral, the climbing eases off for a few bolts until the last 4 bolts. Get ready for classic, hard, vertical "Sendless Wall" style climbing. Don't be afraid to do a bit of wandering up there to reach the anchor.

While at the anchor don't forget to sit back and look over your shoulder to take in this old river gorge in all its beauty. You damn well earned it, Sir Lordeth Maximum Leader!!!

Just right of Pulling on Porcelain. Starts on a huge boulder just after Hellbound for Glory.

Bolts, lots of them! 14 bolts. Probably a good idea to stick click the 1st and 2nd bolt and then make sure, DEFINITELY make sure, you put a LONG RUNNER on the 3rd bolt in the roof or you will suffer rope drag city on the upper half of the route.

The other strategy you might employ is to stick clip the 2nd and 3rd and then unclip the 2nd as you climb past it. However, you are then risking your life to a single bolt in the roof. It is a new 1/2 inch stainless steel bolt but I wouldn't risk this myself. Be safe out there.