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Peak Mountain 3

Radical Sabbatical

FA: Mischa Tourin, Kris Fiore, Levi Leab
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another great adventure to make your way from bottom to top of the Dome. Slightly harder than it’s sister route Work Shoes with completely different character offering a significant amount of thoughtful gear placement and route finding. Enjoy! P.1 Sport. Locate the line of glue-in bolts at the very bottom of the Railroad Yard. Climb the slab and trend right after the last bolt to a ring-bolt anchor at the base of a crack on the Railroad Ledge. (This pitch is often linked with P.2) 5.7+ ~60ftP.2 Mixed. Follow the wide/varied crack up to a small horizontal. A bolt appears where you want it to make a long reach out left to a large hold. Continue to easier ground where a small corner to the left leads up to ring-bolt anchors. 5.7+ ~60ftP.3 Mixed. Step right from the belay. Locate several small gear placements then follow the bolt line when the gear peters out. Head for the big pine, sling it, and then walk left to a short mantle (with a bolt to guide you) to a ring-bolt anchor in the shady spot behind the tree above. 5.6 ~120ftP.4 Mixed. Climb up to the block above to traverse out onto a short vertical section protected by two bolts. Top out that section and do a full 60m traverse along the sidewalk until you reach a ring-bolt anchor at the end. WARNING! – Make sure you have impeccable non-verbal communications as there is no chance you'll hear each other over the highway noise. Alternatively, you can also build a belay above the steep section and split this pitch in two. 5.7 ~180Descent options (in order of my personal preference):1) Bring your approach shoes and walk off down the summit trail (obvious trail off the back of the dome)2) Scramble to the summit proper and rap off a slung tree to link up with the Work Shoes decent route. 3) Double rope rappel from P.4 anchor with 60s will bring you directly to the p.2 or Lichenology and then to the ground.P.4 Variation - Trad. From the start of the 4th pitch get on top of the large block following the first two bolts of the pitch. From there, head up a bit further till an obvious weakness in the head wall appears. Take that back left and up, following cracks as you go. Pull onto the slab and you are at the top anchors of Work Shoes. Keep in mind this is a gear protected crux finish. 5.8 ~30ft of independent climbing. FA Tim Farr, Evan Kirk, August 2020

Location

Starts at the glue-in line of bolts at the bottom of the Railroad Yard. 

Protection

Standard Rack