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MapDescription
This is a hard but well-protected slab with impossibly blank looking moves down low and an interesting dike and knobs up higher. The start is easily aided for those wishing to keep the grade in the low 11 range.
Start at the top of the gully (have your belayer down the gully), on the far left end of the small ledge, and traverse hard left past the initial crux to better holds (a little magic helps here). Continue up the bolt line, following the dike (some hidden holds on the right also) to a sloping ledge. From here, easier but runout slab (if you made it this far the runout will be tame) leads the anchor above a short flake.
Location
Up and right ~ 50' of "Picken on the Fat Kid".
Protection
bolts
Routes in Main Wall
- 19Dr. Strangelove5.11+Sport