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Peak Mountain 3

Mouthful of Marbles

FA Jason Chinchen, 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mouthful of Marbles is one of the best routes on Cornerstone and an engaging and sustained climb. It looks a lot more blank than it actually is, as most of the holds face up and left and lack much chalk. This is definitely some of the most interesting rock in the monument. 

Move past the first four bolts using pockets and good sequences on less than perfect tuff, until the rock suddenly turns bullet hard and very fun. The rest of the climbing follows amazing sidepulls and crimps that appear just as you need them, on some of the coolest rock at Smith. 

 The last two bolts are spaced out enough to add some mental spice, and the crux comes above the second to last with a killer sequence through a thin vertical crack. Go get on this cool route. 

Location

The route starts in the gully on the left face of the Cornerstone buttress. Start under two obvious protrusions with a bolt in between them. It is the middle route on the gully face.

Protection

9 bolts and carabiner anchors, wear your helmet.