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Peak Mountain 3

Millenium Mud Falcon

FA Jim Barnes, Luke Potter 6/2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Three pitches of varied and sustained climbing.

P1. 11c****

8 bolts. Singles from .3-#1 Camalot.

From the left side of the alcove, vertical to overhanging stemming will take you past four bolts. Shake off the pump and continue up techy and sustained slab past four bolts. Excellent! 32m.

P2: 10b***

3 bolts. Tiny to #1 Camalot. Bring a single set of small offset cams.

From the anchor,  climb the blunt arete passing three bolts. Then climb the beautiful twin cracks to the two bolt anchor at the left edge of the main roof. 27m.

P3: 10b****

Gear to #2 Camalot. 5 bolts.

Bolts protect the exposed tip toe across the roof that is exciting for both leader and follower. Great crack climbing leads to the bolt protected arete and the top of the formation. 32m. Lower off.

Location

This route starts in the left side of the large alcove. Look for the four bolts that protect the start of the climb.

Protection

Gear: Tiny to #2 Camalot. Bring a single set of small offset cams.