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MapDescription
Eulogy climbs the left-leaning dihedral/finger crack just to the right of
Crack Up
. The new Boulder Canyon guidebook gives this a rating of 9+. I disagree, it felt like it was in the low 10 range to me (that is what 9+ is is I guess)and is kind of hard to protect. It was quite difficult to exit the crack, once you do you are presented with a weird bulge you have to surmount. The gear is tricky, and there are not any decent stances. Once we surmounted the bulge, we cut right to the anchors on South Beach, I think (the anchors are obvious when you are up there).
Location
It is right of
Crack Up
.
Protection
Rack up to a #2 Camalot. A cool placement in a pocket protects the first moves, but then you plug the pocket and can't use it as a hand hold.
Routes in Broken Rock
- 10Eulogy5.9+Trad