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Peak Mountain 3

Big Egos, Little Dicks

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Description

Find the slabs to the north of main Rotary by walking above the ridge about 50 yards north of the north parking lot. Scramble down and past the north slabs (aka slabland) to the 'Bulge Wall' to the left. The line is known as 'Big Egos, little Dicks' (as given in Benningfields' guide) and 'Bulge Wall Traverse to Exit Wall' (in the horsetooth hang handouts). PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand the small crimp(s) above the finishing rail are chipped. This would make the name most appropriate.

The line starts on the good flakes (seen in the right of Alan's photo), just left of the slabs off a boulder. Traverse the bulge from right to left to the good rail at waist height around the corner. This traverse alone is V3+/V4. Next, figure out the interesting moves to exit the wall straight up from this rail. Uses the evil chipped edge(s) above the rail. The exit moves are stout, thin and interesting and are at least V4, if not harder. The whole line is given V7 in Benningfield and the Hang handout.

Protection

A pad and a spotter are nice, especially for the exit moves.