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Peak Mountain 3

Rex

FA Rob Pilaczynski 7/16/16
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The T-rex is a wild ride! Start in the kind of chossy corner underneath the roofs. Big move up and left into the rail on the arête. Find a sequence of crimps up higher to move right and set up for the crux, a (for me) dynamic foot-cutting throw to a compression arête above the 2nd roof. From here, move up to an amazing pinch on the lip of a roof and a small crimp and get established into a knee-bar to help pull over the upper roof/crux. A few more feet of easier climbing to the top.

Protection

Tricky top rope set up. Long slings and thoughtful/careful master-point placement required! There's a key re-direct piece below and right of the final roof that helps control swings if you fall off and a possible lower re--direct piece can protect the opening moves. PM me for more specific anchor beta if interested. Would be X-rated lead.


Routes in tyrannosaurus


  1. 1
    Rex
    5.12b/c
    Tr