- Edit (TBD)
Description
Far left buttress of Alien Wall. Begin in the large gully at the left side and traverse the poor quality rock to access the wide, off-width left-angling and overhanging crack about 25 ft up. Pull committing moves into the crack to easier ground, leaving the crack for a short stretch of bulging face to large horizontal crack above poor rock. Traverse right to access vertical hand crack leading to easier ground. Done ground up once and then repeated and cleaned further.
Needs still more cleaning, but the death blocks are gone -- go for it and clean, or wait until we clean this route up more! Note that the upper part to the anchors passes to the right of much loose rock on easy climbing.
Location
Far left of this upper wall, on the far left of the main gulley feature.
Protection
FA done ground up on trad gear, double rack of 0.3 to 3 inch cams, with single 4 inch for the lower off-width. If you place a lot of gear you'll want triples of 0.5, 0.75 and 1 inch cams.
Routes in Alien Wall
- 1No More Aliens5.10Trad