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Peak Mountain 3

Melarkey Street

FA James Garrett and Franziska Garrett, 31 July 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Viewed from Hinkey Summit, a long wide and prominent horizontal cleft or division intersects the very top of this west facing consolidated slab. The climbing on the Cleft seems to be a bit more compact than on the Hinkey Hop.Named after the Melarkey Street in Winnemucca which eventually takes you out of town to Paradise Valley, the Cleft is further demarcated by a big vertical runnel or gully that splits the Cleft into a North Wall and a South Wall.This is on the shorter North Wall. Pitch #1: Start following bolts about 10m to the left (north) of the vertical water runnel. Climb up pocketed and edgy features to a nice ledge (Boulder Ledge) and 3 bolt belay. 5.7, 30m, 10 bolts.Pitch #2: Veer left up a ramp like feature following more pockets and continue straight up passing a right leaning bulge to a two-bolt belay on a ledge with a tree. 5.8, 30m, 11 bolts.Pitch #3: EZ scrambling over broken up terrain to a two bolt belay or continue on easy ground to the very top of the northern Cleft. 5.3, 25m 3 bolts.Although the route is equipped for rappel, it is very easy, casual and much more logical to walk off the back side.

Location

As you drive up Paradise Valley towards Hinkey Summit, "The Great Cleft" is an impressive formation to the east of the road and access is best approaching from the Aspen forest at a hairpin turn where you will park about the same level as the middle of the wall. Hike down and through two gullies (drainages) until you reach the base of the wall.

Protection

All bolts are SS and about 50% are glue ins. Generous protection for a beginning multi-pitch leader.


Routes in The Cleft


  1. 1
    Melarkey Street
    5.8
    Sport · Alpine