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Peak Mountain 3

Upper Traverse

FA 1958, George Sessions, Merle Alley
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

First climb ever done at Tollhouse! A  must-do piece of history, and it's good! Also, many other routes are accessed from this (classics such as Desperado, United Express, Mi Vida Loca). Start in the obvious gully/chimney, passing a manzanita tree halfway, arriving at a flatter section with blocks, belay here. Pitch 2 continues up some cracks, eventually clipping the original 1958 piton and exiting the crack system to face, then runout easy slab to the anchor.

Location

Easily viewable along the approach to this and all the climbs on the main wall. It is the striking gouge up the face. Head right off the main trail when you are just below Upper Traverse (just before Free and Easy route). Follow a trail uphill along the base of the rock and eventually arrive at the obvious chimney.

Protection

cams from small to 3 inch