Tommy TwoTone

Tommy TwoTone is the 100' alternate direct line located within A Big Tease on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall. Although sharing the first 7 bolts and last 3 bolts of A Big Tease, while climbing, this route proves to be a completely different animal all together. Not only are you tasked to climb the crux of A Big Tease, you are also required to pull a harder crux resting just below on the 3 bolt section of this route. These two sections stacked on top of one another definitely up's the ante, and the grade...

Start out climbing A Big Tease up to perma-bolt 7. After resting at the sofa jug, continue straight up from there. Clip bolt 8 and set up for the crux of the route; some trickery required. Once through the lower crux, it's hard reachy 5.11 face climbing up to what is now the redpoint crux of the route (A Big Tease crux). After you clear this section and clip bolt 11, climb the arete of good holds up to the ledge system above. Ride the continuing finger crack up clipping bolts 12 and 13 leading to fixed steel anchors.

Hate to contrive, but using the arete through the 3 bolt section knocks the grade down a letter or two. 

The alternate line is bolted with black metolius hangers. 

9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors

Tom Egan is the original badass who installed the anchors that are currently sitting atop this huge monolith. Put up in the early 90's, a top rope was left up for a couple of years, but no developing was done until more than twenty years later. Seeing as how he had so many different developing projects going on at that time, it's easy to understand why Tom never laid hammer to stone on this piece of rock. Tom's notable contributions to the park form a pretty long list. Liquid Jade, Blue Light Special, Child Abuse (Catalyst), a lot of the Upper Gorge, Cajun Corner, A Little Seduction, The Product. And the list goes on... Not only one of the most influential people i've met at Smith so far, he's also one of the nicest and most inspiring as well. These two routes are for you Tom!

Direct line starting out on A Big Tease

9 bolts, 4 fixed draws / fixed steel anchors