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Peak Mountain 3

Incision

FA Linda Jarit, Bryan Law, and Steve Rathbun, August 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Incision follows features on the right edge of Razor Back and is primarily a gear route.

Pitch 1 (5.7) begins with a traverse to the right of the left-facing corner at the start of the approach pitch of Cut to Pieces.  Then climb up to the shelf to the right of the two blocks on Cut to Pieces, then traverse straight right across a flake and to a bolt.  Continue right of the bolt to a small left-facing corner and then from the top of the corner climb a few face moves to a small ledge at the base of the main corner.  Belay on cams.

Pitch 2 (5.7) follows the main left-facing corner to a 2-bolt anchor with chains where the corner arches left into a small roof.  The corner accepts cams from thin to about 4” and has a few wide spots.  The gear list below is intended for a 5.7 leader; a more confident leader may choose to bring less gear, maybe up to about 3”.

Two rappels to the base with two ropes, via the lower bolted anchor of Bayonet.

From the second pitch anchor of Incision, you can set up a 100-foot toprope and climb the face just left of the corner (5.8 to 5.9, depending on which way you go).  Please do not thread your rope through the chains to set up a toprope.  Set up the toprope with your own gear, clipped directly to the bolt hangers and underneath the quick-links.  Threading through chains and lowering puts undue wear on the chains and it is poor form.

Location

This is the rightmost route on Razor Back.  The second pitch goes up the obvious left-facing corner at the right edge of the wall.

Protection

Double set of cams to 3”, plus 1 ea. 3.5” – 4”

Nuts

Draws and long slings