- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route's anchors are new based on the 2012 comments. May have another name. Great protection all the way up. First bolt is nice and low (and easy to miss). The overhang bolt is the hardest to snag but still good protection and big feet all the way up. Before topping the roof, you can go far right for an easier but run out climb then traverse back in or face climb on the left. The roof would be difficult (5.11) to top straight on and makes this route harder than listed. The crux is between the last bolt and the anchor (as of 2020, the anchor has four hardware store quick links for lower). The anchor was 5.11 on its own unless you go left and take the steps on the side of the face and lean in. Cleaning the anchor required PAS or two short slings to hang from because there's basically no feet. Get ready for a lot of one arm pull ups.
Stay on the route, even when top roping. The rest of this face is very loose (as evidenced by the massive rock slide below you and rock quarry on the ground) and wants to come apart and chuck big rocks at your belayer. Helmets extremely recommended for both people.
Location
First route you find at the end of the trail up to the rock. On the left, separate from all the other climbs off to the right (west). Very rocky. Minimal to no lichen. It is the tallest route with the darkest rock.
Protection
8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with quick links