- Edit (TBD)
Description
AKA: Orangesicle Wet DreamStart at the base of a small "buttress" on clean rock, to the first pitch crux protected by a bolt. Pull the 5.9+ layback/slab crux through a (sometimes) weepy section to cruiser climbing to the first anchor. Now the route really gets good! Move up the dihedral through a finger crack to a stance below the overhang above. Move left on sloping undercling crux, clip the mercy bolt and continue left to a good jug. From here it's straight up the orange lichen dihedral through bulges/mantles (nice little hand crack at the end) to the top anchor near the top of the wall. Superbly done as a single pitch (just use light pro on the cruiser section, bypass anchor, and extend in the tight corner.) If rapping with a 70m you'll reach the trail, otherwise use the intermediate anchors.
Location
Struggle down the trail to New Frontier. Once there continue til you cross a boulder on the trail. The trail starts up again and you'll see a small buttress jutting out at the trail, you'll see the clean rock and a shiny bolt about 20 feet up (kinda stands out on this wall).
Protection
Standard rack to 3ish (3 not necessary though a 2 is). Takes nuts well. Two lead bolts, bolted anchors/chains/rap rings (thanks AntiGravity for the metalurgy).