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Peak Mountain 3

Bread & Vine

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Description

AKA: Orangesicle Wet DreamStart at the base of a small "buttress" on clean rock, to the first pitch crux protected by a bolt.  Pull the 5.9+ layback/slab crux through a (sometimes) weepy section to cruiser climbing to the first anchor.  Now the route really gets good!  Move up the dihedral through a finger crack to a stance below the overhang above.  Move left on sloping undercling crux, clip the mercy bolt and continue left to a good jug.  From here it's straight up the orange lichen dihedral through bulges/mantles (nice little hand crack at the end) to the top anchor near the top of the wall.  Superbly done as a single pitch (just use light pro on the cruiser section, bypass anchor, and extend in the tight corner.)  If rapping with a 70m you'll reach the trail, otherwise use the intermediate anchors.

Location

Struggle down the trail to New Frontier. Once there continue til you cross a boulder on the trail. The trail starts up again and you'll see a small buttress jutting out at the trail, you'll see the clean rock and a shiny bolt about 20 feet up (kinda stands out on this wall).

Protection

Standard rack to 3ish (3 not necessary though a 2 is). Takes nuts well. Two lead bolts, bolted anchors/chains/rap rings (thanks AntiGravity for the metalurgy).


Routes in {10} New Frontier


  1. 1
    Bread & Vine
    5.10b
    Trad