The Route Formerly Known as Face

This climb ascends the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9+). Well, actually it traverses ~8' right onto the face just after the crack crux (you'll know...). After another 15' of face climbing, which gets continually easier, the holds run out and there is a brief stretch of slab before reaching a ledge and the final 20' to the anchors.

On top of the upper tier, there is a medium-sized tree. People used to top-rope off of this, but it called for a ton of webbing. Now you can use this tree to rappel to glue-ins just over the lip. Set your top-rope off of these!

Or, you can lead it: a couple of big cams for the crack and a smaller one for the traverse (something like a 4, 5, and .75), and then clip 6 bolts going up and over the face.