The Gates of Lodore

This is the big crack splitting the east face (#1 on FIGURES 1 & 2), going from a body squeezing start to offwidth to hands. It's smooth 'in there' at the start, so either wear a non-skid rubber suit or be ready to exert extra pressure against the opposing faces. Higher up, one must transition out of the fat crack and into a great hand crack. Belay and descend (about 60 feet) from two ring anchors at the top.

It is the East Face of the formation. See the Figs. 1 and 2 for the location of route #1, the climb, and top anchors.

Take a half rack, doubles in the medium range, and at least 2 #5 Big Bros or equivalent large cams (cams probably preferable , we also used the two largest 'Big Dudes' at the time - it flares!) for the beginning (negotiating this area might be the crux, or maybe higher up where the crack spits you out). (There are anchors at the top).