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Description
This climb starts about 12 yards right of
Morning Sickness
in a wide opening with 4 cracks. Climb the middle 2 cracks as seen in the photograph. After this strenuous start, go about 60 feet to a shelf and belay. The second pitch starts in a wide chimney that after a strange move off a ledge narrows into a squeeze reminiscent of
Teds Trot
but distinctly narrower. The pitch ends with a nice finger crack leading to a belay on a wide ledge. The exit pitch is the right of 2 cracks, which are about 20 feet right of the end of p.2. The first 2 pitches are 7+; the exit pitch is 5.9.
Descend by scrambling right to the rappel bolts at the end of
Bushwhack
. Note: the rappel bolts above
Arch Stanton
are in disrepair. The climb was named in honor of William Badgett--a first ascentionist of
Morning Sickness
.
Protection
0.4-4 Camalots, small tricams. A #5 Camalot is helpful.
Routes in Holdout
- 7William5.9Trad