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Peak Mountain 3

Towering Inferno

FA Lewis, Calder, Croft -- 5/98
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UPDATED 

Description

For novelty, length, and position, an ORG must-do.

P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse. Start in alcove at lower right of roof. Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance. The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse. 15 bolts.

P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.

P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing. Weird cups & bowls; some meandering. Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.

P4 (11b) -- Tricky. Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing . Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts

P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low. Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf. 5 bolts.

Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.

Protection

15 draws. Long draws or slings helpful on pitches 3 & 4.