- Edit (TBD)
Description
There's a bolted climb right next to Bivy Route that has some fun moves? Really? This one was slightly furry but is now cleaning up again. A tough start leads to a section of large holds above. The last section, just past the last bolt, holds a slopey crux. Once you pull through, you can stand up on the ledge and ponder what you intend to do...
You can clip the anchors for Crankenstein and lower down (this is not the original route, let's call it Shortline), or you can plug some cams and follow the crack out the roof out left. Once you reach the notch, head on up to the anchor and hope the rope is long enough to get you back to the ground.
Location
Find the roofs area and look up. On the right side of the big roofs you'll see the anchor. The start of the climb is the small corner beneath a bolt.
Protection
All bolts to the ledge, then cams out the roof. Bolted anchor. You may need a 70m rope.
Routes in Eagle Bluff
- 47Airline5.10dTrad