Ice Nine

This is the wide, crooked crack that is easily spotted as you turn the corner around the North Buttress of the West Ridge. It is just right of

Prince of Darkness

and

Sirens of Titan

.

The first 20 feet are very wide but easy. After enjoying a seat on a pinnacle, you do a fun, rightwards hand traverse and pull up into a left-facing corner that you follow to the end. The last twenty feet of the corner protect beautifully on hand-size and smaller pieces, but will feel a little tough if 5.6 is your limit.

A large piece or two will protect the very wide start (

i.e.

#4.5 Camalot) or you can wait until the wide (and pretty easy) stuff is over at which point a standard Eldo rack will be fine. The anchor setup requires care and equalization of a slightly more than average number of pieces due to detached blocks.