Not Quite As Loose As It Looks

This is the route on the far right of the Millcreek Monster massif. Proceed past six bolts up three slab sections divided by two roofs. A rewarding and surprisingly interesting array of moves leads to a notch with rap rings. The crux is in surmounting the 2nd roof.  The rock provides ample holds every time it’s needed which suggests 5.7 but the crux move requires a degree of commitment meriting 5.8.

To reduce rope drag use slings rather than QDs below both roofs.

The rap anchors can be used to rap the route or go down the back side. Short 4th class scramble up back accesses the anchors.  If considering top roping, extend the anchor to avoid rope wear through notch.

The name came from conversation as first ascentionists scoped the potential line and climbed initially on trad. “Quite” was inserted into the name to remind that this is Millcreek multifractured rock. Most obvious hazards were removed by crowbar and by accident but loose holds and those that are fine when loaded one direction but not another are still a real possibility given the fractured rock.  A certain-death-for-those-

below-sized rock came off the top one time during route development.  It almost reached the road (bye-bye poor little cyclist or car door).  Be careful.  Check all holds until it sees a lot of traffic.  Helmets are a must and belay / wait to the side.

Approach by angling right (west) through the talus field to the down-canyon end of the main face. Find the north facing slab that comes closest to the ground.

6 bolts. Some trad placements possible also for the nervous.