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Peak Mountain 3

1200' of more Fun

FA Paul Ross, Patrick Moe (Var Leads) 7th Nov/ 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

AKA:

Needle Ridge

, Starts just right of 1000' of Fun and climbs the long ridge. This is one of the few climbs in this area that one can walk off instead of rapping. However from the top of pitch 5 one could make a short rap to link onto the top anchors of 1000' of Fun and take five raps down that route.1200' is a sister route to 1000' of Fun with a little more commitment but even better views and situations

P1)Follow the easy rounded slab for about 60' to a bolt ,move down to the left to a lower slab then up a open groove passed two more bolts to double anchors.185'5.5/6R.

P2)From the belay climb passed a bolt and move up to the right to the upper ramp. Two more bolts are passed to double anchors.5.6/7R 200'

P3)The angle eases . Follow pleasant slab to double anchors 5.3R

P4)Continue passed a block in the groove and moderate climbing on excellent rock to double anchors.5.4R 200'

P5) Straight up keeping to the left edge of a fine open slab to double anchors.(One will see about 40' down to the left the anchors at the top of 1000' of Fun)5.5R 200'

P6) Climb across to the right from the anchors ,the up to a single bolt ,passed this up onto the ridge and to the summit anchors. 5.6/7 200'. Register in small cairn just above the belay.

Descent:

Scramble 60' to junction with the "Walk in the Park Gully" Walk down this (30 mins) to the foot of the ridge.

Location

Three Fingers Canyon. Drive 6.1 miles from the I.70 gate entrance to faint road on right ,then about two miles (four wheel)to the Three Finger Canyon

Protection

A few Cams .5 to #2 Camalots. Slings .One 60m rope if Gully descent is taken or Two 60m ropes if one raps down 1000'of Fun