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Peak Mountain 3

Threat Level Weasel

FA Jake Dickerson (December 2020)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The weasels have their revenge on this one. Brutal moves off the deck and a sustained finish make it the hardest route of the three 5.12's on the cool flowstone panel. Once you pay the steep entry fee you will be rewarded with awesome technical movement on in-cut pockets and grippy slopers all the way to the chains.

Start left hand on a terrible sidepull crimp and right hand in a shallow 3 finger pocket. Crank up and right to a grippy nub, and then high to a bad left hand slot. Make a technical traverse left on minuscule holds to the snake eye pockets, and then up left to a sinker mono. From here take slopers and small pockets up to the chains where the holds finally start to get bigger.

Would be 3 stars if it were longer and the bottom boulder problem wasn't so heinous.

EDIT: Sounds like people are starting on the route to the right and traversing in after the bottom boulder and is still 5.12c. If you do the direct it is probably harder, maybe 12d?

Location

The red streak. (left most route on the Weasel Wall)

Protection

4 glue ins to lowering hooks