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Peak Mountain 3

Orange Crush

FA Vaino Kodas, Mark Rolofson, Mary Zuvela, 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Orange Crush is a good climb up an obvious, left-facing corner with orange lichen streaks, with a crux sequence of thin corner moves to a tricky bulge with big holds and a potentially awkward mantle.

The 11d rating given by the FA party seems about right by modern Boulder Canyon sport ratings, but this is significantly easier than the adjacent

Respite

rated 11d/12a.

Follow the Blob Rock approach trail to the gully between Blob Rock and East Blob. Continue up the gully past the very popular moderate sport climbs

Shimmer

,

Simmer

,

Bolt Cola

and

Get Shorty

and the less popular but very good trad climbs

Center Route

and

Where Eagles Dare

. Where the gully narrows, the (currently) leftmost set of bolts is Orange Crush.

Moderate climbing leads past 2 bolts to a slab and the base of the corner. A few more moderate moves lead to a big layback/finger jam and a stance. The climbing is sustained from here until you are established over the bulge. Make a hard move to thin tips layback and a difficult clip. Small fingers may help here. Another hard move gets you big holds on the bulge, but it's tricky to avoid barn dooring. The next clip is from a big jug, which you partially mantle to gain the slab and the end of the hard climbing. A few more bolts lead slightly left across a moderate slab to the anchors.

You could also angle right above the crux to the

Respite

anchors and thus top rope both climbs.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings.