Self Abuse

Put away the old flogging whip and pay the penance for your sinful ways on Self Abuse instead. This flaring maw of a crack starts with some sharp finger locks you will combine with lower body slab and chimney techniques to surmount. The hand jams following this bouldery crux section quickly lead to the flaring squeeze chimney you will grow to know, and, well, probably hate.

If the reason for this climb's name has not become apparent to you at some point during the squeeze, your technique is more dialed than mine. Caution is required, however, for there is some hollow rock as well as untrustworthy flakes inside the crack, but solid protection can be found. And remember to say hi to the alligator lizard as you pass, it is mellow and doesn't seem bitey.

The obvious O'Keeffe-esque crack on the South face of Midway Rock.

#1-#4 Camalots will probably make you happy, some recommend up to the #5 and #6. 2 bolt anchor.