Beware of the Gong

Climb face near ridge/arete which forms the right edge of this Wall. The climbing is not difficult but has widely spaced bolts and not well traveled enough to have clean rock.

Pitch 1: Straight up face finding some thin edges to reach first bolt 20-25 ft up. Continue up and trend a bit left to stay away from the edge.

. . . Variation "Beware of the Edge" (harder) : (Top-Rope only): Instead of continuing up to second bolt, from the first bolt move up right to get as close to the edge as possible, with some delicate moves. A bit higher up climb on the crest of the arete up to a ledge below overhanging block. Step right on ledge then up over its overhanging right (East) face (tricky short 5.11b) onto a wide platform to rejoin main route.

Up past second bolt to reach ledge under right side of overhang (just left of right edge of face). Straight up over this at bolt onto wide flat platform. Finish on arete rising up from right side of platform to reach obvious ledge with directional bolt and two anchors to left.

. . . (or if feel the need to clip a bolt for protection, finish up face to left of arete).

Traverse left on ledge to finish at bolts+chains+rings anchor for top of pitch 1 of the route "False Prophets".

Pitch 2: Roughly straight up to two-bolt anchor on wide ledge to right of big triangular block at lower right side of summit face.

? Pitch 3 ? -- There is a two-bolt anchor at the top of the cliff, but no bolts readily visible above the top of P2. Also there has been a report of a big loose rock perched high (? Is that the "Gong" ?), which if it fell could kill some people below.

At the bottom of the right side of the Wall, find a wide gentle solid-rock platform which is just right of 25-ft-tall detached pillar. A slope of dirt and loose rocks goes up right from that. Start on the face over that slope, about 18 ft uphill right from the right end of the solid-rock platform, and 6 ft left from right edge of face, below a bolt.

See line

U

on this Photo

. . . .

or line

U

on this Photo

variation "Beware of the Edge" : See line

V

in either photo.

Top-Roping

: Two bolt top anchor for the route "False Prophets" can be used as an anchor to set a top-rope on P1 of this route.

Two-bolt top anchor for P2 can be reached with careful traverse right on a ledge from the "direct" P2 finish anchor for P2 of the route "Sticky Revelations".

Leading

: Although there are some bolts, should not be thought of as a "sport" route.

The bolts are far apart, and at least one is positioned with where leader hits a ledge if fall.

Likely want to bring some Trad gear.

Perhaps come prepared to stick-clip the first bolt of P1.

P1 ends at the two-bolts-with-chains+rings anchor of the route "False Prophets" (just right of the pitch 2 crack of "Sticky Revelations").

P2 top anchor is two bolts with no chains or rings.