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Peak Mountain 3

9th ST Sampler

FA Philip Burnett, Aug 2020
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UPDATED 

Description

This route covers the entire wall, from "The Reach Around" to "Genius/Edge of Madness", with fun movement throughout.

The main crux is moving up "Jerusalem", over to "Cleft Lip", then down and through the crux of "Cracked Lip". After that, belay at the chains for "Like Pull'n a Tooth/Teeth".

The second pitch is much easier, if more run out. It's a bit of a choose your own adventure anywhere from 5.9 to 5.11 depending on how high or low you go. Bring a few cams to prevent a really bad fall (BD #3 and #0.5 work well). Belay at chains for "Edge of Madness".

Location

Begin on the starting holds for "The Reach Around" and angle up toward the first bolt on "Shino".

Where this is the most used crag in Ogden, please be courteous - this route takes up the whole wall.

Protection

Mostly uses the bolts encountered on the traverse but many of them need to be extended to reduce rope drag, and prevent decking.

A 24' "mega-draw" was used to protect the moves between "Bring Your Lunch" and "Midnight Cowboy".

Bring a few cams for the second pitch to make things a little safer.

There are a handful of places that if you blow the clip you might deck. It's safer to take the fall without the extra slack out if you're pumped.