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Peak Mountain 3

Hot Fun Sunday

FA unknown to me
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Description

How pumpy can a 70' route be anyway? OK, come find out.The climb is a striking, shallow dark, right-facing corner well left on the Fin Wall. This is perhaps 100M right of Crappichino. There is a plaque at the base last I saw.

Climb up from the base and set overhead pro. Move up to a stance with a wider jam, place more overhead pro and then gun for a while in off-size jams or a hard lieback to reach a narrow stance on decent feet 2/3 of the way up. Maybe you placed more pro, or maybe you risked a fall. Arrive exhausted and rest on the foot to the left of the crack, place gear and and then gun up a few more mvevs to a good jam, placing more pro. Go for the awkward finish with a large piece, or perhaps above your gear.

If you can't jam this size, you might not get much gear. Though you can get more, I suspect it's a "4-piece" route for many non-jamming folks unless they hang or are mutants. The anchor is just above the slopey topout and is exciting to get to. Please Rap off instead of lower to avoid beating the rock with your rope. If you set a TR, please consider a long sling or cordalette.

Protection

1.5" to 3" extra 1.5 and 2"If you want overhead pro at the top-out, take one wider piece.