- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route starts up a chossy, flaring squeeze, continues with some fun moves around a horn, and finishes with juggy climbing on (relatively) good rock.
Location
On the left (west) side of the formation in the Training Camp that is called the Penguin. It's the formation that has Covey Leader to Raven and Rookie of the Year/An All Star on it. Scramble up some broken rock just left of the formation to the start of the route. There are two belay bolts far to the right that you can belay from.
Protection
Here's what I recommend: A #5 Camalot would be perfect for protecting the start (I used a #4 and it was tipped out a little). One #3 Camalot comes after that, followed by one or two .75 (green) Camalots or a green and a purple. I didn't get any gear in after about halfway up the climb but take some micro cams or nuts and you can probably get something in. There are two bolts with chains at the top that are part of another route. It's best to belay your second up. The chains aren't in the ideal place for toproping.
A helmet for the climber and the belayer is definitely recommended, as is being familiar with the area's rock so that you know which holds to pull hard on and on which ones to pull lightly.