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MapDescription
Start slightly right from sandy bottom then traverse left on rail to start of crack. Clip first bolt then grit your teeth and move through the technical crux, very thin past 2nd bolt then into crack with nice gear. Crack is hands and fingers, sometimes shallow, sometimes flaring. Some really hard crack toward top then over mini roof to great edges and 2 bolt anchor.
Location
In the same alcove as Dirty mcnasty's, right side of john doe wall as you follow the base right and down/around a bit.
Protection
2 bolts, nuts, triples from tiny stuff to .75BD, 00 and 0 metolious great, even ball nuts useful, singles from 1 to 3BD, a #4 is useful for start of crack. Great to have your small stuff in diff cam types for overlap in range.
Routes in John Doe Wall
- 6Frenching Shiela5.12Trad